The other bagel shop, open 24/7, wood-fired, and best eaten in the car on the way home.

Fairmount bagels at 3 a.m.
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Haitian griot, Saint-Henri
Fried pork shoulder, pikliz hot enough to make you sweat, plantains cut thick.
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The Portuguese chicken counter, Plateau
Charcoal-grilled, piri-piri painted on with a brush, ready in eight minutes.
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The Hakka counter, Kensington
Four stools, no menu, one auntie who decides for you. Chili oil rendered slow, noodles pulled to order.
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Sri Lankan hoppers on Danforth East
Egg hoppers thin enough to see through, chicken curry that's been simmering since breakfast.
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